My Chocolate Valentine: 2010

Thursday, July 1, 2010

A Manhattan Marathon--Final Chapter

Our last full day in New York City. Mark is sequestered in the day-long meeting that brought us here. I spend the day in a mostly futile clothes shopping excursion (too much hot chocolate expanding the waistline?). The temperature hovers in the high 80s.

Wandering through the sweltering SoHo district, I recall that nearby is another chocolate salon on my list. My optimism at finding a beverage better than the acceptable version at Francois Payard is slim, but after complaining a few nights before to our talented friend, comedian Bill Santiago, about our failure in finding a decent hot chocolate, he immediately suggested MarieBelle. Still skeptical, but needing a respite from the heat and the noise of street, I wend my way to Broome and Wooster.

An oasis of cool and quiet greets me as I step into the store. From the cacophony of Big Apple bustle to almost reverential silence, the transformation is immediate and striking, like walking into a cathedral. The ubiquitous crystal chandelier dangles from the ceiling (apparently crystal chandeliers are obligatory in NYC chocolate shops). Although the decor appears fussy, the atmosphere feels casual. An amiable and attractive young woman directs me to the chocolate salon in the back of the building, where only one other patron is seated and studying the lunch menu. Edith Piaf tunes trill on the sound system. Ignoring the food offerings, I focus on the hot chocolate menu--Dark, Milk or White, all made with single-origin South American chocolate.

The Dark category lists four options: Aztec, with 60% cocoa mass; Dark, 70%; Maya, unsweetened; and Panela, 75%. All can be made with either water or dairy. I opt for a small, water-based Dark. The chocolate arrives in a white ceramic cup, barely bigger than an espresso. The beverage is a gorgeous chocolaty color. I swirl my spoon through the liquid. Not as thick as my version, but still luscious and velvety. The texture would probably be even thicker if the chocolate had been allowed to simmer longer and had been better blended; a few partial chunks remain in the cup. At least I know MarieBelle melts actual chocolate, rather than using powder or syrup.

I let a small sip linger on my tongue. Just the right temperature. No sweetness at all, only pure chocolate flavor. The flavor is so intense, in fact, it is almost overwhelming. But I remember that at St. Gines in Madrid, Mark and I each added two cubes of sugar to our mugs, so I spoon sweetener into this cup and savor the results.

This feels so incredibly close to what I'm seeking. I order another cup, an Aztec (60%) with milk. The dairy lends a lighter color to this version. The texture is actually less thick. The milk and the lower percentage of cocoa create a sweeter drink, and after the intensity of the Dark without dairy, this beverage tastes almost too sweet to me, although it has a delightful cocoa flavor and just the right amount of bitter bite. A tiny puddle of the Dark remains in the other cup, so I blend it with some of the Aztec and sample my creation.

I text Mark, "MarieBelle's :-)"

"Oh noooooooooooo!" he repliles. "I missed the one!?"

"Yep!" I answer as a huge smile radiates across my face.
_________________________________

MarieBelle SoHo
(212) 925-6999
484 Broome St, between Wooster St and West Broadway.
MarieBelle Express is open from 8:00am to 8:00pm during the week and 10:00am to 8:00pm on Sundays.
MarieBelle Retail Store and Cacao Bar are open every day from 10:00am to 8:00pm.
By subway, take the A/C/E to Canal Street, or the number 6 train to Spring Street.
ENJOY!

Saturday, June 5, 2010

A Manhattan Marathon--Day 2

After seeing Alfred Molina's vivid portrayal of famed abstract expressionist painter Mark Rothko in the Broadway play "Red", my husband Mark--who, in this hunt for hot chocolate, has named himself "the Trailing Spouse"-- and I decide to visit the Museum of Modern Art on our second full day in New York. To bolster our bodies for viewing six levels of art, we of course fuel ourselves with cups of hot chocolate.

First stop, 30 Rock. 30 Rockefeller Plaza that is, to sample the haut chocolat of the popular Parisian boutique, La Maison du Chocolat. After admiring the lavish Art Deco architectural detailings of the Rockefeller Center, we step down into La Maison's air-conditioned salon. Cases of luscious ganaches, pralines and pastries beckon to us, but we resist their siren calls and order a cup each of the Caracas and the Guayaquil. At $8 a cup, this is the most expensive hot chocolate in the city.

We first sample the freshly whipped cream that arrives in a separate bowl. Wow, are we spoiled in the Bay Area with premium, organic dairy products from local creameries such as Strauss. Or perhaps La Maison just didn't feel the need to use a quality product for their beverages. Their whipped cream lacks any flavor profile and is airier than we prefer. It adds nothing to the texture of the hot chocolate. Although the beverages themselves a lovely dark color, they are also not as thick as we prefer, and are surprisingly too hot--once again on the verge of scalded--and I begin to wonder if this is a French trend. The Guayaquil, made with milk and a touch of water, has a decent chocolate flavor. The Caracas is made only with water, which usually allows for a stronger chocolate flavor to emerge. This beverage, however, only tastes bitter. We at least finish drinking the Guayaquil, but the Caracas we leave behind as we set out to our next destination.

Frenchmen Michel Cluizel's is one of the few chocolatiers to process his own cocoa beans, and his exceptional chocolates are sold around the world. Although I rarely purchase his products, I always savor the chocolate when I do taste it. So yes, as Trailing Spouse and I enter his 5th Avenue shop, we have high expectations and child-like anticipation. A blast of icy air greets us as we enter the salon and seat ourselves at one of two petite tables at the rear of the shop. The menu offers a selection of white, milk or dark hot chocolate. Of course we order dark. With whipped cream.

As we shiver in our seats, waiting for our beverages, I spot a can--yes, a CAN--of whipped cream on the marble counter near the chocolate. My expectations begin to diminish. And then we hear the "ding!" of a microwave. Mark and I stare at each other, wide-eyed. "Is she NUKING it?!" I exclaim. When the cup arrives at our table, the liquid floating in it is anemic and watery. "Does this look appetizing?" I ask Trailing Spouse. He concurs that it doesn't. The flavor is equally unappetizing, like an unsweetened packet of cocoa. I plunk in the accompanying little square of chocolate and it immensely improves the flavor of the beverage. Not enough, however, to ever order Michel Cluizel's hot chocolate again.

With three more disappointing cups of chocolate in our bellies, we decide to temporarily forget the ill-used cocoa bean and indulge ourselves in MOMA's outstanding collections. Hours later our eyes are glazed, our feet our weary, but we're immensely satisfied. Time for more hot chocolate. We have just enough time for a dash into Francois Payard before Mark's business dinner.

We race up Madison Avenue, push our way through a glass door, and find ourselves in a small, elegant jewelry store. Two living male mannequins in exquisite suits stand at attention among spotless vitrines of glittering necklaces, bracelets, rings. "We're here for chocolate" I announce casually, as if it were the most natural thing in the world to ask for hot chocolate in a diamond vault. Apparently in this shop it's not so uncommon, after all. Without a moment's hesitation, one mannequin motions to the back of the tiny boutique. "Take the elevator to the fourth floor."

The elevator doors reopen to a salon of exposed brick walls, brown paint and chic white bar stools. We sit near a window overlooking Madison Avenue and ponder the interesting menu options. Finally, I order the Dark 64%. Trailing Spouse is intrigued with the Raspberry and Orange Blossom. My beverage is dark and silky while Mark's is lighter in color and texture, but still lovely. I'm beginning to believe I have at last found my hot chocolate here in NYC. I sip the chocolate. Not too hot--just the right temperature. I sip again. Sigh. It tastes like milk chocolate. The flavor does not have the rich depth to match its deep brown color. If you like milk chocolate, then you will not be disappointed by this beverage. However, if you crave the intensity of dark chocolate, this is not your drink. The fruit and flower infused beverage smacks of flavored syrup, but I don't mind it. Perhaps I've given up on my expectations. For once we actually finish our hot chocolates. Overall I'm modestly pleased, Mark less so.

Back down the elevator with the gilt-edged mirror and writing table, past a fashionably attired woman trying on a mega-carat ring, and out again into the shock of horns, shouts and Manhattan bustle. Another mostly disappointing day (yes, I've use that word "disappointing" a lot in these past two blogs). Do I have the stamina and perseverance to continue the search? Stay tuned!

______________________
La Maison du Chocolat
30 Rockefeller Center
49th Street
NY 10020 New-York
Tel : (1212) 265 9404
Fax : (1212) 265 9405
Hours: Monday - Friday: 9.30am - 7pm; Saturday:10am - 7pm; Sunday: 12 pm - 6pm

Also at 1018 Madison Avenue and 63 Wall Street
http://www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/en/boutiques.php?c=newyork

Michel Cluizel

584 5th Ave
(between 47th St & 46th St)
New York, NY 10036
(646) 415-9126

http://www.chocolatmichelcluizel.com/HomePage.php

Francois Payard
FC Chocolate Bar
714 Madison Avenue (btwn 63rd & 64th), Fourth Floor
Enter through Mauboussin Jewelry
New York, NY
(212) 759-1600
http://www.payard.com/index.aspx

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

A Manhattan Marathon--Day 1

"Pack insulin!" my husband exclaimed as we printed out five pages of New York City establishments that serve highly-rated hot chocolate. I found the list simultaneously exciting and daunting. "Rich, thick and 'a meal unto itself'" proclaimed a review of one Manhattan chocolate drink. "Sweet, smooth liquid" read another. I had not been to NYC since the emergence of my obsession for the perfect hot chocolate, so the prospect of finding my Holy Grail of an intensely rich, flavor-laden European-style beverage in a city renowned for the quality of, well, most everything was as exciting to me as revisiting the Museum of Modern Art or catching a show on Broadway.

Armed with lists, maps and friends' recommendations, Mark and I flew to the Big Apple for a six-day mixture of work, pleasure and a great cup or two of chocolate. The last of that list proved to be more challenging than we could ever have imagined.

Our first stop was City Bakery. Described on its website as "a one-of-a-kind destination on the food map of New York City" and its hot chocolate, according to New York Magazine, "perfection", City Bakery seemed highly promising. It even hosts its own hot annual chocolate festival!

From a long central island behind a curtain of homemade marshmallows strung with twine, young men and women adorned in white caps and aprons dished up monster muffins and cookies the size of saucers. Mark and I ordered a cornmeal ginger pear muffin and a classic dark hot chocolate. As I followed the server towards the rear of the counter, where the chocolate simmered in a large vat, I inquired about the quality of the beverage. "This is no Swiss Miss," the plump adolescent assured me. She did not, however, have any additional information to offer, such as how it was made or what kind of chocolate was used, so I accepted my large ceramic cup of chocolate--freshly frothed with the same type of device I used at home--and seated myself next to Mark at one of the tables that line the perimeter of the retro-looking room.

Mark and I stared down at the pale concoction. "Hmm, it certainly looks like Swiss Miss." The first sip revealed a beverage that was somewhat thicker than average hot cocoa and just as sweet. It was, in fact, like a good quality version of Swiss Miss. It tasted of milk chocolate, rather than dark, but with a slight bitter aftertaste. With great disappointment, Mark and I gave up after consuming only half the cup and then moved on to our next destination.

Jacques Torres--acclaimed French pastry chef, TV food show host and chocolate manufacturer. Surely a visit to his chocolate salon would yield a proper cup of chocolate. Peering through the brightly bedecked windows of his shop on Hudson Street, we watched women working up batches of confections behind shelves of whimsical chocolate sculptures. The interior surprised us with its colorful, kitschy decor--crystal chandeliers, strings of plastic beads, and tropical-colored fake flowers. After debating the menu selections at the chocolate bar, I opted for a Classic, while Mark ordered a Classic with Caramel and whipped cream.

The sullen young woman behind the counter steamed the milk and chocolate combos and poured our beverages into...paper cups! Paper cups. Seriously. I scanned the store and peeked behind the counter. No ceramic or glass in sight. It's understandable to serve hot chocolate in paper cups in "to go" establishments, such as at the Ferry Building in San Francisco. But this was the renowned Jacques Torres. This was a shop selling tins of hot chocolate mix for $18.

Chocolate is sensitive to extreme temperature changes and requires slow melting at a low temperature to prevent burning. Milk, if even slightly burned, acquires its own peculiar flavor. My first sip of Jacques Torres' chocolate burned my tongue, it was so hot. Both milk and chocolate had been scalded. In fact, a skin had formed on the surface of the drink. Returning to the counter with my over-heated hot chocolate, I explained to the now-glowering server that my beverage was scalded and I asked her to prepare a new cup for me. The second drink suffered only slightly less abuse under the steamer; another skin blanketed the top. As the chocolate cooled enough for me to sip it, I contemplated its watery texture and lack of aroma. Mark, meanwhile, found that the whipped cream and caramel sauce added enough texture and flavor to his chocolate to make it palatable, although I personally found it too sweet. We both agreed, however, that my "Classic" was undrinkable. After a few more sips, we left the full cup on the table and walked away disappointed yet again.

The petite, violet-walled boutique of Vosges Haut Chocolat in SoHo beckoned us next. Purple boxes and tins of chocolate and cocoa lined the white shelves along the walls. A crystal chandelier floated above the glass cases stuffed with truffles, and a window sign extolled Vosges's bacon chocolate. After ordering a $5 "flute" of the "Parisienne" hot chocolate, Mark and I sampled a couple of the wonderful confections offered up by the cheerful staff. The solid form of their cocoa bean products were delicious.

Our drink arrived in a tall, slim cylinder that seemed more appropriate to a laboratory than a chocolate shop. The clear glass vessel was too hot to hold anywhere but at the very top, and it was obvious that no dairy was used to make the drink. Although it had no weight to its consistency, the flavor was at least clean and it looked, tasted and smelled of chocolate. Mark was less charitable and deemed the drink "fancy cocoa" and simply watery. Once again, we left behind an unfinished glass of chocolate.

Three chocolate salons and four hot chocolates on our first day in Manhattan, and we ended the afternoon dissatisfied, as well as jittery from the abundance of chocolate. My optimism for finding a great cup of hot chocolate in New York had waned, but I still had hope--and at least three or four additional salons to visit. On to another day!

--------------------------

In a rating of one to five cocoa beans, the hot chocolate we tasted at each of these three establishments garnered one cocoa bean from Mark and me.

The City Bakery

www.thecitybakery.com

3 West 18th Street
New York, NY 10011-4610
(212) 366-1414

Hours: 7:30 AM - 7:00 PM

Jacques Torres

http://www.mrchocolate.com/

350 Hudson at King Street (1 block South of Houston)

New York, NY 10014

(212) 414-2462

Hours: Mon - Sat 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM; Sunday 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM

Vosges Haut Chocolat

http://www.vosgeschocolate.com/

132 Spring Street (between Greene & Wooster)
New York, NY 10012
(212) 625-2929
Hours: Daily 11:00 AM - 8:00 PM

Friday, May 7, 2010

Thwarted in Baltimore

Living in the perpetually cool climes of San Francisco does have its plus side--it's rarely ever too warm here to drink hot chocolate. On a quick visit to Baltimore a few weeks ago, I searched Yelp for hot chocolate recommendations, despite the 80+ degree weather. Two establishments looked very promising--Pitango Gelato in Fells Point and Common Ground Cafe in Hampden. Since I was going to be meeting John Waters --he of "Pink Flamingos" and "Hairspray" fame--at the San Francisco International Film Festival in a couple weeks, it seemed particularly appropriate that both venues are nestled in the neighborhoods where Waters works and lives.

Pitango is popular locally for its distinctive gelato, made from fresh, organic ingredients. The Yelp review of their hot chocolate seemed as promisingly delectable as its Italian-style ice cream. By the time Mark and I parked on an unsavory block in the Fells Point area and walked to Pitango in the muggy, hot mid-Atlantic air, our faces glistened with sweat and I was frantically fanning myself. Still, I was determined to sample some of "Bawlmer's" hot chocolate. As we stood in line, however, we couldn't find Hot Chocolate listed among the variety of gelato flavors or specialty coffee offerings--only a missing plaque among the others listing the menu items.

"We only serve our hot chocolate in the winter," the chipper staff informed us. What?! They can still sell cafe lattes and macchiatos and other hotter-than-hell coffee-based beverages, but hot chocolate is deemed seasonal. Sigh. The public really needs to be educated about hot chocolate. It's not just for snow days!

Well, when life gives you lemons...eat gelato. Mark and I shared a cup of flavorful and fragrant cardamon gelato that was surprisingly refreshing and paired beautifully with richly-flavored chocolate sorbet. With our cooling treat, we wandered through the historic and funky Fells Point neighborhood, along cobble-stoned streets, past shot-gun style red brick buildings and colorful characters, past familiar establishments we patronized during our years living in the Washington, DC area--Bertha's ("Eat Bertha's Mussels!") and John Steven Ltd. Tavern. And then we set off again in search of a cup of liquid chocolate as hot as this Spring day.

Hampden. Home of quirky filmmaker, John Waters. Home also to a stretch of equally quirky boutiques and cafes along the rather recently gentrified W. 36th Street. As heavy, charcoal-colored clouds began to blanket the sweltering sun, we tucked into one little shop after another--Avenue Antiques; Breathe Books; Crystals, Candles and Cauldrons. The shop owner who sold whimsical Christmas ornaments created from Blue Crab shells warned us of the severe storm quickly moving in over the county. Ah, perfect for sipping hot chocolate, I thought.

A lively and kitschy tote displayed in a shop window lured us into Kiss N Makeup, a boutique filled with delightfully off-beat items befitting the neighborhood. Twenty minutes, many stories with the gregarious shopkeeper, and one odd-ball gift later, we left Kiss N Makeup in search of our original destination, Common Ground Cafe. We walked through the escalating rain up W. 36th, confused by the addresses. Did we really pass the cafe already? Our yen to explore the eccentric stores had led us blocks past Common Ground. We reversed direction and trotted through the drizzle. By the time we reached the cafe, we were damp again, this time with raindrops rather than sweat.

"The cafe's closed," the young woman with the vacuum informed us. "We close at five." Mark looked at his watch--5:20 PM. The rain became a downpour.
____________________
If you have better luck than I did:

Pitango Gelato
802 South Broadway
Baltimore, MD 21231
(410) 702-5828
Store hours:
Monday through Friday 11:00 AM to 11:00 PM
Saturday and Sunday 11:00 AM to Midnight
Hot Chocolate sold only in Winter

Common Ground Cafe
819 West 36th Street
Baltimore, MD 21211-2508
(410) 235-5533
They close at 5:00 PM

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Trader Joe's Belgian 72% Dark

My blog's languished these past couple of weeks not for a lack of interest, but simply for a lack of time. Already in danger of being heaved out the office window for insufficient focus on fast-approaching events, I've decided now is not the time for afternoon excursions in search of my Holy Grail. So for the moment I'll continue testing different brands of chocolate at home.

This past week, I tried Trader Joe's Belgian 72% Dark, which comes in a whopping pound brick. I'd used TJ's Belgian many years ago, before moving on to finer chocolates, but it was worth giving it a try again. At first, when the chocolate mixture thickened into pudding-like consistency in the pot, I thought EUREKA! I've found my chocolate! I could stand a spoon upright in it--just like the St. Gines chocolate in Madrid!

But the flavor disappeared almost the second it hit my tongue--a brief hit of chocolate flavor that quickly dissipated, leaving behind a slightly bitter after-taste. Very disappointing. And now I've got this huge chunk of leftover TJ's chocolate. Sigh.

Trader Joe's does, however, make a nice cocoa powder they call "Drinking Chocolate." It comes in a brown tin and creates a tasty hot cocoa--a good alternative when you're looking for a warming drink that's not quite as labor intensive or rich as hot chocolate.

Since it's Easter, I looked into some Easter chocolate history and learned that the first chocolate Easter eggs appeared in Germany and France around the 1800s. The eggs were solid until modern machines allowed the eggs to be molded hollow and mass produced. Not what I'd actually call progress.

"The modern chocolate Easter egg with its smoothness, shape and flavour owes its progression to the two greatest developments in the history of chocolate - the invention of a press for separating cocoa butter from the cocoa bean by the Dutch inventor Van Houten in 1828 and the introduction of a pure cocoa by Cadbury Brothers in 1866. The Cadbury process made large quantities of cocoa butter available and this was the secret of making moulded chocolate or indeed, any fine eating chocolate. " (The Chocolate Traveller)

Until the next time, Happy Sippers--

DRINK CHOCOLATE

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Green & Black; Scharffen Berger

Continuing my experimentation with other brands of chocolate...

Green & Black Organic 72% Baking Chocolate: Produced dark brown color with nice sheen. Thickened up very quickly and evenly, without using cornstarch or arrowroot. Good bittersweet flavor and smooth texture. Mark characterized it as "yummy!" I would definitely use the Green & Black 72% again.

Scharffen Berger 70% Bittersweet: Not quite as deep a hue as the Green & Black, but it quickly thickened, like the G&B did--more so, perhaps. It looked like chocolate frosting. Not a smooth texture, however. Somewhat more like...chocolate frosting. Mark and I both detected a chalky feel when consuming it. Mark normally prefers to keep the whipped cream floating on top of his cup of chocolate as long as possible, spooning both cream and chocolate together. But with the Scharffen Berger, he mixed the whipped cream in to help mitigate the chalkiness of the chocolate. I would not use the Scharffen Berger again.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Ferry Building Mini-Marathon

Another soggy, gray Friday afternoon and a meeting at the Ferry Building prompted a last-minute mini-marathon of hot chocolate tasting at San Francisco's artisan food emporium. My friend Ann joined me in tasting beverages from Michael Recchiuti, Boulette's Larder and Blue Bottle Coffee.

Ahh, the Ferry Building Marketplace! Yes, there is a ferry terminal out back, where you can catch a commuter ferry across the Bay, but it's the gourmet goodies such as Cowgirl Creamy cheeses, Acme bread, Hog Island Oysters, and Miette Patisserie that most visitors and locals seek under the iconic clock tower. Yum!

After inhaling one of Out the Door's popular steamed vegetable buns (because, believe it or not, woman cannot live on chocolate alone), Ann and I start at Recchuiti Confections. I've been a fan of Michael Recchiuti since he was shelling out his heavenly chocolates from the back of his truck when the Farmers Market was still in a parking lot, before the Ferry Building was renovated in 2003. He handed out samples practically by the fistfuls, which was a highly successful way to cultivate fans. At least it worked for Mark and me! Some of our favorites are the fleur de sel caramels and the divine rose caramels. His burnt caramel-covered hazelnuts are addictive, and his pates de fruits are exquisite.

But before we dive into the hot chocolate (hmm, what sort of swimsuit does one wear to dive into chocolate?), I should point out that beverages in the Ferry Building are served in compostable paper cups and there is very little seating available. Yes, drinking chocolate from anything less than a heated ceramic cup is sacrilegious, but since I didn't bring my own, I had to make do with what was offered.

Now back to Recchiuti. The hot chocolate swirls around in a clear glass container, a blade keeping the chocolate flowing, preventing it from scorching. Ann and I appreciate the deep chocolately color and the smooth texture. It isn't as thick as what I make, but it has a very satisfying viscosity. One of Recchiuti's signature cloud-like marshmallows slowly melts into the liquid, adding it own vanilla appeal and silky feel. The chocolate flavor has a bitter edge, without being overwhelming. It's a strong, dark drink, and probably would not appeal to those who like their beverages sweet. Ann and I love it. $4 for a cup that was just the right amount to share.

Surprisingly, no dairy is used to make the beverage. It is the thickest, richest of the water-based hot chocolates I ever recall having tasted. Michael creates his own unique blend using chocolate from Valrhona and El Rey. He even adds a little white chocolate into the mixture! (An important note for those who are strictly vegan or lactose-intolerant: the ingredients listed on the box of pistoles used for making the hot chocolate indicates milk powder.)

Boulette's Larder is a tiny little restaurant, a chef's kitchen and a delightful shop selling high quality pantry ingredients and prepared foods. The "ganache-based" hot chocolate is served straight from a copper double-boiler resting on the enormous multi-burner range in the center of the store. Yes! I think, THIS is going to be great chocolate.

But the chocolate, while possible thicker than Recchiuti's, is much paler and even has a grayish hue. An oily sheen shimmers on the surface. The first sip reveals a much sweeter taste than Recchiuti's. The milk flavor comes through far more than the chocolate. It's not a "clean" taste or feel like the Recchiuti chocolate. Like Michael, Boulette's Larder also uses Valrhona, mixed with another kind of chocolate (undisclosed to me). Neither Ann nor I, however, finishes the cup. Not worth the calories. And despite the huge portion, not worth the $5.

Not yet in a complete sugar/chocolate stupor, we finish our research at Blue Bottle, famous for it's individually crafted cups of java. Their menu lists Recchiuti hot chocolate, but rather than made with water, Blue Bottle mixes the chocolate with milk. The portion is the largest of the three, the price ($3.50) the cheapest. An artful leaf pattern decorates the milky surface. First sip--bland. Second sip--this isn't even chocolate milk. Despite being made with milk, the beverage is watery and completely tasteless. We take a few more sips, just to confirm, then drop the rest into the compost bin.

This one was a no-brainer for both Ann and me. Recchiuti was the hands-down favorite. Before exiting the Marketplace, I purchased a box of Michael's pistoles to make the hot chocolate at home. I also bought a bar of Scharffenberger's Bittersweet Chocolate because I really enjoyed the sample I tasted at their shop (they do not offer beverages) and would like to experiment with melting it into hot chocolate at home. And finally, I couldn't resist purchasing a copy of "Curious George Goes to a Chocolate Factory"!

And that, my chocolaholic friends, is enough for one posting!
'Til next time, happy sipping!

Recchiuti Confections
Monday- Friday: 10am-7pm
Saturday: 8am-6pm
Sunday: 10am-5pm Marketplace Shop #30

Boulette's Larder

LARDER HOURS
Monday-Friday: 8am-6pm
Saturday: 8am-2:30pm
Sunday: 10am-3pm
TABLE SERVICE
Mon-Fri 8am-10:30am Breakfast
Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm Lunch
Sun 10am-2:30pm Beignets/Brunch

Blue Bottle Coffee
Mon-Fri 7AM - 7PM
Sat - 7AM - 6PM
Sun - 8AM - 5PM
Marketplace Shop #7

Friday, March 5, 2010

Coco-luxe Confections--Haight Street

My morning started with a friend informing me that a search for My Chocolate Valentine on Facebook yields a site for a black all-male revue. Hmm, guess I should have done a little more market research before starting my blog! After that tidbit of news, I found myself in the costume rental department of American Conservatory Theater, lacing up my favorite go go dancer (yes, go go dancer)--who happens to be one of the hottest grandmothers (yes, you read that right too) in existence--into a corset and 18th C gown.

Tracy and her Go Go Pros are performing in this Sunday's Academy of Friends Oscar Night Gala at Ft. Mason. This year's theme is "Behind the Seams," reflecting costume design in Hollywood films. No, Tracy won't be actually dancing in the sumptuous black, gold and white brocade gown that we both quickly agreed upon. Instead, she will be one of the "actors" coming out in sexy undergarments to get dressed, coiffed and made-up a la a movie star in his/her dressing room. Not until later in the evening will she be undulating on a go go platform in something considerably less massive and weighty.

After 1-1/2 hours of lacing and unlacing at ACT (and yes, a knee to the corseted back really helps with leverage), my next mission beckoned. Actually, it screamed. The order of gold lame' bodysuits for our Gold Boys ("living" oscar statues comprised of buff Gold's Gym men and a few women) that were due to arrive today have been held up at customs. Back-up bodysuits or briefs were urgently required, in case the overseas shipment doesn't clear by Saturday morning. After numerous calls around town, my co-workers informed me that New York Apparel on Haight Street had gold lame' briefs. Since I was already at Costumes on Haight (purchasing a long cigarette holder and sunglasses for the Breakfast at Tiffany's scene), I ventured farther along Haight Street--lined with vintage, second-hand, and ultra-funky clothing stores--to gather up whatever I could of gold bottoms (that is a story itself, but I digress enough).

So, WHAT, you are asking yourselves, has any of this to do with hot chocolate? Well, after power-shopping for the Gold Boys, I continued my search along Haight for additional costumes and accessories until I walked past Coco-luxe Confections. My friend Hal had recently informed me about the store's existence, and I was now foot-sore and weary, so I happily tucked into the interior--as hip and retro as the store's name--, bellied up to the counter and inspected the beverage options listed on the whiteboard. Hot Cocoa. About half dozen or more kinds, including Gingerbread and the nearly ubiquitous Mexican (cinnamon and chile). The tantalizing words "Hot Pudding" were scrawled at the bottom of the list. The young woman behind the register assured me it was thick--to be consumed with a spoon. But it was also vegan. Hmmm. A few doubts pecked at my mind, but in the interest of curiosity and this blog, I was of course compelled to try a cup.

At first I was excited by the deep brown pudding resting beneath a mound of freshly whipped cream. But my excitement quickly melted into disappointment when I discovered the pudding's gelatinous texture. The disappointment deepened after tasting it. Only a faint chocolate flavor. No depth, no complexity. No tastebud orgasm. Just an unevenly coagulated mass of cocoa powder mixed with water and some thickening agent. After consuming less than half the cup, I set down my spoon and pushed the cup aside.

If you are a vegan longing for an idea of the sinfully rich beverage that is the Holy Grail of this blog's quest, then you may feel inclined to order the Hot Pudding. Or not. That said, although the Hot Pudding didn't live up to my standards, I may return to Coco-luxe to sample their hot cocoas, knowing that they will be just that--hot cocoa and not hot chocolate. And I will hope that the product is significantly more appealing than what I tried today.

Until the next post, happy spooning!

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Testing Ghiradelli

I haven't made hot chocolate in over a week (gasp!), so I decided to make some this morning before Mark left for L.A. Because the Whole Foods on Franklin hasn't stocked El Rey Gran Saman lately, I was forced to use a substitute (another gasp). So I decided to try San Francisco's own Ghiradelli, specifically their 60% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate.

First, a little history about Ghiradelli. Domenico Ghirardelli was born in Italy in 1817 and apprenticed to a local candymaker as a child. After living briefly in Uruguay and Peru, he joined the throngs of dreamers and prospectors searching for a different source of pleasure in California in 1849. His gold prospecting didn't "pan" out, so he opened a general store in Stockton, selling supplies and confections to the miners. The tent-based store was one of the first shops set up in the area. Ghiradelli soon expanded his chocolate business into successful permanent stores around San Francisco, eventually transferring the company to his three sons. In 1965, San Francisco declared Ghirardelli Square (where many of the Ghirardelli buildings were constructed) an official city landmark, (production facilities, however, are now in San Leandro, CA. The Swiss company, Lindt and Sprüngli, acquired Ghirardelli Chocolate Company in 1998) and is now a popular tourist destination.

But back to this morning's chocolate! What I had purchased was a bar and already 4 ounces, so there was need to weigh it. Nor chop it. It broke easily into small enough segments for melting, and it melted quickly and easily in the heated milk/cream mixture. In fact, it heated so well, necessitating vigorous and vigilant stirring. The melted chocolate seemed more delicate and therefore in greater danger of scorching than the El Rey. The process of making a delectable batch of hot chocolate is not for those who suffer from Attention Deficit Disorder! It requires constant, loving attention!

So, the finished product--the appearance had decent gloss and fairly deep brown color, though the texture was more liquid than pudding-like. Mark and I both agreed that the flavor was sweeter than with the El Rey (although in all fairness, I forgot to add a smidgen of salt), sweeter than we personally prefer. And the flavor lacked complexity. The first taste presented a nice chocolate hit, but it didn't linger. In summary, a fine substitute in a pinch or if you prefer a sweeter beverage, but nothing very memorable.

And now I'm off to find costumes and accessories for this weekend's Academy of Friends Oscar Night Gala!

Happy sipping!

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

February 26th Tasting--Christopher Elbow

As I ventured from the office in Hayes Valley this past Friday afternoon, rain and wind assaulted my inadequate umbrella, leaving me soggy and shivering as I stepped into the Hayes Street shop of Kansas City chocolatier, Christopher Elbow. It was a perfect day for cozying up to a cup of hot chocolate!

My friend Rachel and I were meeting to discuss her new project--an environmental film festival--and, of course, to sample the goods. And Christopher Elbow offers a wonderfully decadent array of chocolate treats, from purple-tinted domes of Lavender Caramel (one of my favorites), to Passion Fruit, to Single Malt Scotch and so many more flavors.

But it's the Liquid Chocolate Bar that tempts us today. After spending many minutes contemplating the dizzying number of options listed on the LCD monitor behind the counter (the Ginger and the Curry Spice sound enticingly exotic, and I'm always a fan of Mint Chocolate), I finally decide that for research purposes I need to sample the basic Cocoa Noir. Rachel orders the Venezuelan Spice and we seat ourselves on the row of leather benches and light cubes that face floor-to-ceiling windows along Gough Street. When the fairly generous-sized cups of chocolate arrive, we both know immediately that this is not the thick, pudding-like chocolate we're seeking. The chocolate, however, is thicker in texture and much richer in flavor than the average cup of cocoa, and although ratio of milk to chocolate is far greater than I prefer, it is still a very enjoyable cup of hot chocolate. The Venezuelan Spice has a pleasant level of spiciness and just a touch of heat, neither interfering with the taste of the chocolate.

The beverages are made with shavings of Valrhona, a premium French chocolate, and milk. A "Euro-style" hot chocolate made with water is also offered, which is good news for vegans. (More on milk and cream vs water later.) Each cup is $4.50, which I think is fair value considering the serving size and location.

The interior is sleek, the music hip, the people watching on Gough Street is pretty good. When Rachel and I arrived around 3:00 PM, we we the only patrons, but by 4:00 PM the atmosphere became livelier with more shoppers and sippers flowing into the shop.

So, if you're in the Hayes Valley area and looking for an alternative to a cup of coffee or tea, I would definitely recommend visiting Christopher Elbow. And be sure to sample their solid chocolate treats, too, especially if you are a fan of liquid caramel chocolates.

Christopher Elbow Chocolates
401 Hayes (at Gough)
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 355-1105

Hours: Tue-Sat. 12:00 PM - 8:00 PM, Sun. 12:00 PM - 6:00 PM

http://www.elbowchocolates.com/

PS: I'm not sure yet if I'm going to create a rating system. Stayed tuned....

Friday, February 19, 2010

Recipe 1-San Gines

Last night I made a triple batch of hot chocolate for a dinner party in Bolinas. The chocolate was served with rum, freshly whipped cream and Mexican Wedding Cookies. Mmmm mmm good! Two of the dinner guests originally declined the offer of hot chocolate--until they heard the oohs and aahs from fellow diners and saw that the cups held something significantly different from the expected anemic cocoa powder. A few tense moments followed when folks thought they would have to share their chocolate, but I was able to produce two more cups and diffuse the situation.

I use the San Gines recipe, modified (see my notes below).

Chocolate a la Taza
Chocolateria San Gines, Madrid, Spain
1/2 cup whole milk
1/4 cup heavy cream
4 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

In a non-reactive saucepan, combine the milk and cream and heat over medium-low heat until very hot but not boiling. Gradually add the chocolate to the hot liquid, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the chocolate is completely melted and the mixture is smooth. In small cup, dissolve the cornstarch in a few tablespoons of water. Add the dissolved cornstarch to the chocolate mixture and stir constantly until it is almost as thick as a pudding. Serve immediately in warmed cups.

Makes demitasse servings.

Tina's Notes:

I prefer to use El Rey Gran Saman 70% chocolate. I find the chocolate melts beautifully, thickens nicely without cornstarch and has good flavor. But it's fun to experiment with other varieties and percentages of chocolate (which I will do and report on in future blogs). Sometimes Whole Foods sells the El Rey in discs, which saves the step of having to chop the chocolate. Sometimes I add different flavored chocolates, too, such as mint or orange. For Valentine's Day this year, I added some homemade Rosemary Caramel Sauce (another incredibly yummy recipe!).

You'll note the San Gines recipe calls for vanilla in the ingredients, but doesn't say where to add it. A typo in the book, I imagine. The best time to stir in the vanilla is after you've removed the chocolate from the heat.

Because salt enhances flavors, some people--yours truly included--like to add a pinch to their chocolate. I use vanilla salt, and usually do not add vanilla at the end.

I also have not been adding the cornstarch, since the El Rey thickens up enough for my tastes--not pudding-like, but rich enough to still consume with a spoon. When I do choose to add a thickener, I prefer using Arrowroot, since it doesn't impart an after-flavor, like cornstarch does. Most importantly, if you let the chocolate rest awhile before reheating and consuming it, the texture will become even more velvety and thick.

Enjoy!

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Cocoa vs the Real Deal

Before I get too far with my research and blogging, I should explain the difference between hot cocoa and hot chocolate, because they are two very different beverages, and what I am obsessed with is the latter.

All too often hot cocoa is erroneously referred to as hot chocolate, which is an insult to the real thing. Hot cocoa consists of cocoa powder (the non-fat components of chocolate) and a sizable amount of sugar, usually pre-packaged and mixed into heated milk or water. It is often pale in appearance and equally pale in flavor. Many of us grew up drinking hot cocoa on chilly winter days, with soft white marshmallows floating on top often being as appealing as the beverage itself.

Hot chocolate, on the other hand, is more than a mere drink to warm you up on cold afternoons. Premium-quality dark or bittersweet chocolate is chopped or shaved and gently melted into milk and/or cream that has been heated to just below the simmering point. A good hot chocolate is silky and seductive, its appearance and flavor dark and rich. Savor hot chocolate slowly, letting the complexity of tastes delight your tastebuds.

Dark chocolate is also abundant in antioxidants, so consider it a health drink. At the very least, it's almost guaranteed to make you smile!

Next up, the San Gines recipe, and more on chocolate itself.

My Chocolate Valentine