Green & Black; Scharffen Berger

Continuing my experimentation with other brands of chocolate...

Green & Black Organic 72% Baking Chocolate:  Produced dark brown color with nice sheen. Thickened up very quickly and evenly, without using cornstarch or arrowroot.  Good bittersweet flavor and smooth texture.  Mark characterized it as "yummy!"  I would definitely use the Green & Black 72% again.

Scharffen Berger 70% Bittersweet:  Not quite as deep a hue as the Green & Black, but it quickly thickened, like the G&B did--more so, perhaps.  It looked like chocolate frosting.  Not a smooth texture, however. Somewhat more like...chocolate frosting.   Mark and I both detected a chalky feel when consuming it.  Mark normally prefers to keep the whipped cream floating on top of his cup of chocolate as long as possible, spooning both cream and chocolate together.  But with the Scharffen Berger, he mixed the whipped cream in to help mitigate the chalkiness of the chocolate.  I would not use the Scharffen Berger again.

Ferry Building Mini-Marathon

Another soggy, gray Friday afternoon and a meeting at the Ferry Building prompted a last-minute mini-marathon of hot chocolate tasting at San Francisco's artisan food emporium.  My friend Ann joined me in tasting beverages from Michael Recchiuti, Boulette's Larder and Blue Bottle Coffee.

Ahh, the Ferry Building Marketplace!  Yes, there is a ferry terminal out back, where you can catch a commuter ferry across the Bay, but it's the gourmet goodies such as Cowgirl Creamy cheeses, Acme bread, Hog Island Oysters, and Miette Patisserie that most visitors and locals seek under the iconic clock tower. Yum!

After inhaling one of Out the Door's popular steamed vegetable buns (because, believe it or not, woman cannot live on chocolate alone), Ann and I start at Recchuiti Confections.  I've been a fan of Michael Recchiuti since he was shelling out his heavenly chocolates from the back of his truck when the Farmers Market was still in a parking lot, before the Ferry Building was renovated in 2003.  He handed out samples practically by the fistfuls, which was a highly successful way to cultivate fans. At least it worked for Mark and me! Some of our favorites are the fleur de sel caramels and the divine rose caramels. His burnt caramel-covered hazelnuts are addictive, and his pates de fruits are exquisite.

But before we dive into the hot chocolate (hmm, what sort of swimsuit does one wear to dive into chocolate?), I should point out that beverages in the Ferry Building are served in compostable paper cups and there is very little seating available.  Yes, drinking chocolate from anything less than a heated ceramic cup is sacrilegious, but since I didn't bring my own, I had to make do with what was offered.

Now back to Recchiuti. The hot chocolate swirls around in a clear glass container, a blade keeping the chocolate flowing, preventing it from scorching.  Ann and I appreciate the deep chocolately color and the smooth texture. It isn't as thick as what I make, but it has a very satisfying viscosity. One of Recchiuti's signature cloud-like marshmallows slowly melts into the liquid, adding it own vanilla appeal and silky feel. The chocolate flavor has a bitter edge, without being overwhelming.  It's a strong, dark drink, and probably would not appeal to those who like their beverages sweet. Ann and I love it. $4 for a cup that was just the right amount to share.

Surprisingly, no dairy is used to make the beverage.  It is the thickest, richest of the water-based hot chocolates I ever recall having tasted.  Michael creates his own unique blend using chocolate from Valrhona and El Rey. He even adds a little white chocolate into the mixture!  (An important note for those who are strictly vegan or lactose-intolerant: the ingredients listed on the box of pistoles used for making the hot chocolate indicates milk powder.)

Boulette's Larder is a tiny little restaurant, a chef's kitchen and a delightful shop selling high quality pantry ingredients and prepared foods.  The "ganache-based" hot chocolate is served straight from a copper double-boiler resting on the enormous multi-burner range in the center of the store.  Yes! I think, THIS is going to be great chocolate.

But the chocolate, while possible thicker than Recchiuti's, is much paler and even has a grayish hue.  An oily sheen shimmers on the surface.  The first sip reveals a much sweeter taste than Recchiuti's. The milk flavor comes through far more than the chocolate. It's not a "clean" taste or feel like the Recchiuti chocolate.  Like Michael, Boulette's Larder also uses Valrhona, mixed with another kind of chocolate (undisclosed to me).  Neither Ann nor I, however, finishes the cup.  Not worth the calories.  And despite the huge portion, not worth the $5.

Not yet in a complete sugar/chocolate stupor, we finish our research at Blue Bottle, famous for it's individually crafted cups of java.  Their menu lists Recchiuti hot chocolate, but rather than made with water, Blue Bottle mixes the chocolate with milk.  The portion is the largest of the three, the price ($3.50) the cheapest. An artful leaf pattern decorates the milky surface. First sip--bland. Second sip--this isn't even chocolate milk. Despite being made with milk, the beverage is watery and completely tasteless.  We take a few more sips, just to confirm, then drop the rest into the compost bin.

This one was a no-brainer for both Ann and me. Recchiuti was the hands-down favorite.  Before exiting the Marketplace, I purchased a box of Michael's pistoles to make the hot chocolate at home. I also bought a bar of Scharffenberger's Bittersweet Chocolate because I really enjoyed the sample I tasted at their shop (they do not offer beverages) and would like to experiment with melting it into hot chocolate at home.  And finally, I couldn't resist purchasing a copy of "Curious George Goes to a Chocolate Factory"!

And that, my chocolaholic friends, is enough for one posting!
'Til next time, happy sipping!

Recchiuti Confections
Monday- Friday: 10am-7pm
Saturday: 8am-6pm
Sunday: 10am-5pm Marketplace Shop #30

Boulette's Larder

LARDER HOURS
Monday-Friday: 8am-6pm
Saturday: 8am-2:30pm
Sunday: 10am-3pm
TABLE SERVICE
Mon-Fri 8am-10:30am Breakfast
Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm Lunch
Sun 10am-2:30pm Beignets/Brunch

Blue Bottle Coffee
Mon-Fri 7AM - 7PM
Sat - 7AM - 6PM
Sun - 8AM - 5PM
Marketplace Shop #7

Coco-luxe Confections--Haight Street

My morning started with a friend informing me that a search for My Chocolate Valentine on Facebook yields a site for a black all-male revue.  Hmm, guess I should have done a little more market research before starting my blog!  After that tidbit of news, I found myself in the costume rental department of American Conservatory Theater, lacing up my favorite go go dancer (yes, go go dancer)--who happens to be one of the hottest grandmothers (yes, you read that right too) in existence--into a corset and 18th C gown.

Tracy and her Go Go Pros are performing in this Sunday's Academy of Friends Oscar Night Gala at Ft. Mason. This year's theme is "Behind the Seams," reflecting costume design in Hollywood films.  No, Tracy won't be actually dancing in the sumptuous black, gold and white brocade gown that we both quickly agreed upon.  Instead, she will be one of the "actors" coming out in sexy undergarments to get dressed, coiffed and made-up a la a movie star in his/her dressing room.  Not until later in the evening will she be undulating on a go go platform in something considerably less massive and weighty.

After 1-1/2 hours of lacing and unlacing at ACT (and yes, a knee to the corseted back really helps with leverage), my next mission beckoned. Actually, it screamed.  The order of gold lame' bodysuits for our Gold Boys ("living" oscar statues comprised of buff Gold's Gym men and a few women) that were due to arrive today have been held up at customs.  Back-up bodysuits or briefs were urgently required, in case the overseas shipment doesn't clear by Saturday morning.  After numerous calls around town, my co-workers informed me that New York Apparel on Haight Street had gold lame' briefs.  Since I was already at Costumes on Haight (purchasing a long cigarette holder and sunglasses for the Breakfast at Tiffany's scene), I ventured farther along Haight Street--lined with vintage, second-hand, and ultra-funky clothing stores--to gather up whatever I could of gold bottoms (that is a story itself, but I digress enough). 

So, WHAT, you are asking yourselves, has any of this to do with hot chocolate?  Well, after power-shopping for the Gold Boys, I continued my search along Haight for additional costumes and accessories until I walked past Coco-luxe Confections.  My friend Hal had recently informed me about the store's existence, and I was now foot-sore and weary, so I happily tucked into the interior--as hip and retro as the store's name--, bellied up to the counter and inspected the beverage options listed on the whiteboard.  Hot Cocoa.  About half dozen or more kinds, including Gingerbread and the nearly ubiquitous Mexican (cinnamon and chile).  The tantalizing words "Hot Pudding" were scrawled at the bottom of the list.  The young woman behind the register assured me it was thick--to be consumed with a spoon. But it was also vegan.  Hmmm. A few doubts pecked at my mind, but in the interest of curiosity and this blog, I was of course compelled to try a cup.

At first I was excited by the deep brown pudding resting beneath a mound of freshly whipped cream.  But my excitement quickly melted into disappointment when I discovered the pudding's gelatinous texture. The disappointment deepened after tasting it. Only a faint chocolate flavor.  No depth, no complexity.  No tastebud orgasm. Just an unevenly coagulated mass of cocoa powder mixed with water and some thickening agent. After consuming less than half the cup, I set down my spoon and pushed the cup aside.

If you are a vegan longing for an idea of the sinfully rich beverage that is the Holy Grail of this blog's quest, then you may feel inclined to order the Hot Pudding.  Or not. That said, although the Hot Pudding didn't live up to my standards, I may return to Coco-luxe to sample their hot cocoas, knowing that they will be just that--hot cocoa and not hot chocolate. And I will hope that the product is significantly more appealing than what I tried today.

Until the next post, happy spooning!

Testing Ghiradelli

I haven't made hot chocolate in over a week (gasp!), so I decided to make some this morning before Mark left for L.A.  Because the Whole Foods on Franklin hasn't stocked El Rey Gran Saman lately, I was forced to use a substitute (another gasp).  So I decided to try San Francisco's own Ghiradelli, specifically their 60% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate.

First, a little history about Ghiradelli.  Domenico Ghirardelli was born in Italy in 1817 and apprenticed to a local candymaker as a child.  After living briefly in Uruguay and Peru, he joined the throngs of dreamers and prospectors searching for a different source of pleasure in California in 1849.  His gold prospecting didn't "pan" out, so he opened a general store in Stockton, selling supplies and confections to the miners. The tent-based store was one of the first shops set up in the area. Ghiradelli soon expanded his chocolate business into successful permanent stores around San Francisco, eventually transferring the company to his three sons. In 1965, San Francisco declared Ghirardelli Square (where many of the Ghirardelli buildings were constructed) an official city landmark, (production facilities, however, are now in San Leandro, CA. The Swiss company, Lindt and Sprüngli, acquired Ghirardelli Chocolate Company in 1998) and is now a popular tourist destination.


But back to this morning's chocolate! What I had purchased was a bar and already 4 ounces, so there was need to weigh it.  Nor chop it.  It broke easily into small enough segments for melting, and it melted quickly and easily in the heated milk/cream mixture.  In fact, it heated so well, necessitating vigorous and vigilant stirring.  The melted chocolate seemed more delicate and therefore in greater danger of scorching than the El Rey.  The process of making a delectable batch of hot chocolate is not for those who suffer from Attention Deficit Disorder! It requires constant, loving attention!

So, the finished product--the appearance had decent gloss and fairly deep brown color, though the texture was more liquid than pudding-like.  Mark and I both agreed that the flavor was sweeter than with the El Rey (although in all fairness, I forgot to add a smidgen of salt), sweeter than we personally prefer.  And the flavor lacked complexity.  The first taste presented a nice chocolate hit, but it didn't linger.  In summary, a fine substitute in a pinch or if you prefer a sweeter beverage, but nothing very memorable. 

And now I'm off to find costumes and accessories for this weekend's Academy of Friends Oscar Night Gala! 

Happy sipping!

February 26th Tasting--Christopher Elbow

As I ventured from the office in Hayes Valley this past Friday afternoon, rain and wind assaulted my inadequate umbrella, leaving me soggy and shivering as I stepped into the Hayes Street shop of Kansas City chocolatier, Christopher Elbow.  It was a perfect day for cozying up to a cup of hot chocolate!

My friend Rachel and I were meeting to discuss her new project--an environmental film festival--and, of course, to sample the goods.  And Christopher Elbow offers a wonderfully decadent array of chocolate treats, from purple-tinted domes of Lavender Caramel (one of my favorites), to Passion Fruit, to Single Malt Scotch and so many more flavors.

But it's the Liquid Chocolate Bar that tempts us today. After spending many minutes contemplating the dizzying number of options listed on the LCD monitor behind the counter (the Ginger and the Curry Spice sound enticingly exotic, and I'm always a fan of Mint Chocolate), I finally decide that for research purposes I need to sample the basic Cocoa Noir.  Rachel orders the Venezuelan Spice and we seat ourselves on the row of leather benches and light cubes that face floor-to-ceiling windows along Gough Street. When the fairly generous-sized cups of chocolate arrive, we both know immediately that this is not the thick, pudding-like chocolate we're seeking.  The chocolate, however, is thicker in texture and much richer in flavor than the average cup of cocoa, and although ratio of milk to chocolate is far greater than I prefer, it is still a very enjoyable cup of hot chocolate. The Venezuelan Spice has a pleasant level of spiciness and just a touch of heat, neither interfering with the taste of the chocolate.

The beverages are made with shavings of Valrhona, a premium French chocolate, and milk. A "Euro-style" hot chocolate made with water is also offered, which is good news for vegans.  (More on milk and cream vs water later.)  Each cup is $4.50, which I think is fair value considering the serving size and location.

The interior is sleek, the music hip, the people watching on Gough Street is pretty good.  When Rachel and I arrived around 3:00 PM, we we the only patrons, but by 4:00 PM the atmosphere became livelier with more shoppers and sippers flowing into the shop.

So, if you're in the Hayes Valley area and looking for an alternative to a cup of coffee or tea, I would definitely recommend visiting Christopher Elbow.  And be sure to sample their solid chocolate treats, too, especially if you are a fan of liquid caramel chocolates.

Christopher Elbow Chocolates
401 Hayes (at Gough)
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 355-1105

Hours: Tue-Sat. 12:00 PM - 8:00 PM, Sun. 12:00 PM - 6:00 PM

http://www.elbowchocolates.com/

PS: I'm not sure yet if I'm going to create a rating system. Stayed tuned....