Thwarted in Baltimore

Living in the perpetually cool climes of San Francisco does have its plus side--it's rarely ever too warm here to drink hot chocolate.  On a quick visit to Baltimore a few weeks ago, I searched Yelp for hot chocolate recommendations, despite the 80+ degree weather. Two establishments looked very promising--Pitango Gelato in Fells Point and Common Ground Cafe in Hampden. Since I was going to be meeting John Waters --he of "Pink Flamingos" and "Hairspray" fame--at the San Francisco International Film Festival in a couple weeks, it seemed particularly appropriate that both venues are nestled in the neighborhoods where Waters works and lives.

Pitango is popular locally for its distinctive gelato, made from fresh, organic ingredients. The Yelp review of their hot chocolate seemed as promisingly delectable as its Italian-style ice cream.  By the time Mark and I parked on an unsavory block in the Fells Point area and walked to Pitango in the muggy, hot mid-Atlantic air, our faces glistened with sweat and I was frantically fanning myself.  Still, I was determined to sample some of "Bawlmer's" hot chocolate.  As we stood in line, however, we couldn't find Hot Chocolate listed among the variety of gelato flavors or specialty coffee offerings--only a missing plaque among the others listing the menu items. 

"We only serve our hot chocolate in the winter," the chipper staff informed us. What?! They can still sell cafe lattes and macchiatos and other hotter-than-hell coffee-based beverages, but hot chocolate is deemed seasonal.  Sigh.  The public really needs to be educated about hot chocolate.  It's not just for snow days!

Well, when life gives you lemons...eat gelato.  Mark and I shared a cup of flavorful and fragrant cardamon gelato that was surprisingly refreshing and paired beautifully with richly-flavored chocolate sorbet. With our cooling treat, we wandered through the historic and funky Fells Point neighborhood, along cobble-stoned streets, past shot-gun style red brick buildings and colorful characters, past familiar establishments we patronized during our years living in the Washington, DC area--Bertha's ("Eat Bertha's Mussels!") and John Steven Ltd. Tavern.  And then we set off again in search of a cup of liquid chocolate as hot as this Spring day.

Hampden. Home of quirky filmmaker, John Waters.  Home also to a stretch of equally quirky boutiques and cafes along the rather recently gentrified W. 36th Street.  As heavy, charcoal-colored clouds began to blanket the sweltering sun, we tucked into one little shop after another--Avenue Antiques; Breathe Books; Crystals, Candles and Cauldrons. The shop owner who sold whimsical Christmas ornaments created from Blue Crab shells warned us of the severe storm quickly moving in over the county.  Ah, perfect for sipping hot chocolate, I thought.

A lively and kitschy tote displayed in a shop window lured us into Kiss N Makeup, a boutique filled with delightfully off-beat items befitting the neighborhood.  Twenty minutes, many stories with the gregarious shopkeeper, and one odd-ball gift later, we left Kiss N Makeup in search of our original destination, Common Ground Cafe.  We walked through the escalating rain up W. 36th, confused by the addresses.  Did we really pass the cafe already?  Our yen to explore the eccentric stores had led us blocks past Common Ground.  We reversed direction and trotted through the drizzle.  By the time we reached the cafe, we were damp again, this time with raindrops rather than sweat. 

"The cafe's closed," the young woman with the vacuum informed us. "We close at five."  Mark looked at his watch--5:20 PM.  The rain became a downpour.
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If you have better luck than I did:

Pitango Gelato
802 South Broadway
Baltimore, MD 21231
(410) 702-5828
Store hours:
Monday through Friday 11:00 AM to 11:00 PM
Saturday and Sunday  11:00 AM to Midnight
Hot Chocolate sold only in Winter

Common Ground Cafe
819 West 36th Street
Baltimore, MD 21211-2508
(410) 235-5533
They close at 5:00 PM