After seeing Alfred Molina's vivid portrayal of famed abstract expressionist painter Mark Rothko in the Broadway play "Red", my husband Mark--who, in this hunt for hot chocolate, has named himself "the Trailing Spouse"-- and I decide to visit the Museum of Modern Art on our second full day in New York. To bolster our bodies for viewing six levels of art, we of course fuel ourselves with cups of hot chocolate.
First stop, 30 Rock. 30 Rockefeller Plaza that is, to sample the
haut chocolat of the popular Parisian boutique, La Maison du Chocolat. After admiring the lavish Art Deco architectural detailings of the Rockefeller Center, we step down into La Maison's air-conditioned salon. Cases of luscious ganaches, pralines and pastries beckon to us, but we resist their siren calls and order a cup each of the Caracas and the Guayaquil. At $8 a cup, this is the most expensive hot chocolate in the city.
We first sample the freshly whipped cream that arrives in a separate bowl. Wow, are we spoiled in the Bay Area with premium, organic dairy products from local creameries such as Strauss. Or perhaps La Maison just didn't feel the need to use a quality product for their beverages. Their whipped cream lacks any flavor profile and is airier than we prefer. It adds nothing to the texture of the hot chocolate. Although the beverages themselves a lovely dark color, they are also not as thick as we prefer, and are surprisingly too hot--once again on the verge of scalded--and I begin to wonder if this is a French trend. The Guayaquil, made with milk and a touch of water, has a decent chocolate flavor. The Caracas is made only with water, which usually allows for a stronger chocolate flavor to emerge. This beverage, however, only tastes bitter. We at least finish drinking the Guayaquil, but the Caracas we leave behind as we set out to our next destination.
Frenchmen Michel Cluizel's is one of the few chocolatiers to process his own cocoa beans, and his exceptional chocolates are sold around the world. Although I rarely purchase his products, I always savor the chocolate when I do taste it. So yes, as Trailing Spouse and I enter his 5th Avenue shop, we have high expectations and child-like anticipation. A blast of icy air greets us as we enter the salon and seat ourselves at one of two petite tables at the rear of the shop. The menu offers a selection of white, milk or dark hot chocolate. Of course we order dark. With whipped cream.
As we shiver in our seats, waiting for our beverages, I spot a can--yes, a CAN--of whipped cream on the marble counter near the chocolate. My expectations begin to diminish. And then we hear the "ding!" of a microwave. Mark and I stare at each other, wide-eyed. "Is she NUKING it?!" I exclaim. When the cup arrives at our table, the liquid floating in it is anemic and watery. "Does this look appetizing?" I ask Trailing Spouse. He concurs that it doesn't. The flavor is equally unappetizing, like an unsweetened packet of cocoa. I plunk in the accompanying little square of chocolate and it immensely improves the flavor of the beverage. Not enough, however, to ever order Michel Cluizel's hot chocolate again.
With three more disappointing cups of chocolate in our bellies, we decide to temporarily forget the ill-used cocoa bean and indulge ourselves in MOMA's outstanding collections. Hours later our eyes are glazed, our feet our weary, but we're immensely satisfied. Time for more hot chocolate. We have just enough time for a dash into Francois Payard before Mark's business dinner.
We race up Madison Avenue, push our way through a glass door, and find ourselves in a small, elegant jewelry store. Two living male mannequins in exquisite suits stand at attention among spotless vitrines of glittering necklaces, bracelets, rings. "We're here for chocolate" I announce casually, as if it were the most natural thing in the world to ask for hot chocolate in a diamond vault. Apparently in this shop it's not so uncommon, after all. Without a moment's hesitation, one mannequin motions to the back of the tiny boutique. "Take the elevator to the fourth floor."
The elevator doors reopen to a salon of exposed brick walls, brown paint and chic white bar stools. We sit near a window overlooking Madison Avenue and ponder the interesting menu options. Finally, I order the Dark 64%. Trailing Spouse is intrigued with the Raspberry and Orange Blossom. My beverage is dark and silky while Mark's is lighter in color and texture, but still lovely. I'm beginning to believe I have at last found my hot chocolate here in NYC. I sip the chocolate. Not too hot--just the right temperature. I sip again. Sigh. It tastes like milk chocolate. The flavor does not have the rich depth to match its deep brown color. If you like milk chocolate, then you will not be disappointed by this beverage. However, if you crave the intensity of dark chocolate, this is not your drink. The fruit and flower infused beverage smacks of flavored syrup, but I don't mind it. Perhaps I've given up on my expectations. For once we actually finish our hot chocolates. Overall I'm modestly pleased, Mark less so.
Back down the elevator with the gilt-edged mirror and writing table, past a fashionably attired woman trying on a mega-carat ring, and out again into the shock of horns, shouts and Manhattan bustle. Another mostly disappointing day (yes, I've use that word "disappointing" a lot in these past two blogs). Do I have the stamina and perseverance to continue the search? Stay tuned!
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La Maison du Chocolat
30 Rockefeller Center
49th Street
NY 10020 New-York
Tel : (1212) 265 9404
Fax : (1212) 265 9405
Hours: Monday - Friday: 9.30am - 7pm; Saturday:10am - 7pm; Sunday: 12 pm - 6pm
Also at 1018 Madison Avenue and 63 Wall Street
http://www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/en/boutiques.php?c=newyork
Michel Cluizel
584 5th Ave
(between 47th St & 46th St)
New York, NY 10036
(646) 415-9126http://www.chocolatmichelcluizel.com/HomePage.php
Francois Payard
FC Chocolate Bar
714 Madison Avenue (btwn 63rd & 64th), Fourth Floor
Enter through Mauboussin Jewelry
New York, NY
(212) 759-1600
http://www.payard.com/index.aspx
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